The torch roared and spat hot ribbons of fire. Flickering streams of blue, orange and yellow intertwined, setting the waxy, leather surface, like that of a Jurassic reptile, ablaze. It crackled and snapped on the tray as it scorched beneath the flames — like a lizard, changing from a shamrock green to dark pine. “What is that green stuff?” one of the other diners asked. To that, the chef, Matty, laughed and said, “dinosaur kale.” And the entire length of the fifth course, John Williams’ cinematic theme from Jurassic Park played in my mind.
THE HEATHER is matty cowan’s little six seat chef’s counter. DINNER is wednesday to saturday with one seating an evening at 7:30. THE MENU is a seasonally inspired tasting menu. RESERVATIONS can be made here. THE ADDRESS is 357 barton st e in hamilton ontario